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Lenses:

Haber Corelex™ lenses are ground and polished glass in 1.8 and 2.2mm thickness depending on the specific application. These lenses feature a sandwich construction where the polarizing laminate is sandwiched between the glass layers. Anti reflective coatings are applied to the back surface of the lens and mirror coatings may or may not be applied to the front surface depending on the model selected. The entire polarized lens then receives an X-sheet™ hydro coat application to the front and back of the lens that causes water to bead up and roll off. Haber Corelex lenses exceed ANSI standard Z-80.3 for optical transmission clarity and impact resistance assuring you 100% protection from not only harmful UVA, B and C radiation but harmful blue light as well. There is no finer polarized sunglass lens in the world than the glass lenses found in Haber products. Glass lenses are not recommended for any activity where impacts are prevalent but are the best lenses for fishing.

HaberLite™ - The flagship lens in our polymer lens offering, HaberLite™ is the finest in a new generation of polarized lenses that provide not only the highest levels of protection from harmful U.V. radiation and blue light, but also unprecedented impact protection.

Simply put, HaberLite™ provides impact resistance that exceeds polycarbonate with a clarity that rivals the best glass lenses. HaberLite™ lenses exceed ANSI standard Z-87.1 for impact resistance in addition to the optical standard ANSI Z80.3 for sunglass lenses. With HaberLite™ you can be assured you’re getting optical quality and U.V. protection that exceeds ANSI matched with impact protection that not only exceeds ANSI, it sets a new standard.

HaberLite™, why settle for less?

Carbolite™ polymer lenses have 3-times the impact resistance of glass while weighing less than half the weight. When impacts are possible or unavoidable, this material is what you want to provide perception while protecting your eyes. Provides 100% protection from harmful UVA, B and C radiation. Created by a linking of polymers and carbonates, Carbolite™ is virtually indestructible. This is also the logical choice for any impact sport.

ResinLite™ lenses are made of CR-39. This is the world’s most widely used ophthalmic material. It’s lightweight and Rx suitability makes it the perfect choice for Haber’s Bi-focal products. Provides 100% attenuation of harmful UVA, B and C radiation.

Lens base curvature:

Most plano(non-corrective)sunglass lenses are spherical in shape meaning the lens is the same curvature in all meridians. In optics, lens base curve is measured with a tool called a lens clock on the outside surface of the lens. A flat surface would be shown as zero. A lens clock is a mechanical dial caliper that is used to measure dioptric power of a lens. It is a specialized version of a spherometer. The greater the numeric value, the greater the curvature of the lens. In corrective optics the curvature between the inside and outside lens surfaces would be different and a calculation would determine the power of the lens. For sunglasses the curvatures are roughly the same inside and out and no power is introduced into the lens.

Coatings:

X-Sheet™ hydro coatings are applied to sunglass lenses to keep water from sticking to them. The coatings are applied by a dip process and then hung to dry. At a microscopic level they even out the high and low spots in the lens and create one smooth, contiguous surface free of the irregularities common to both glass and polymer lenses.

By reducing the irregularities that water droplets attach themselves to, you can increase the bead angle of the water thereby reducing the wetted surface of each droplet. Gravity, wind, and vibration can all move the droplets from the surface of the lens which is what you want.

Hydro coatings work best on clean lenses as dirt, fingerprints, etc. all reduce the effectiveness of the coating by allowing water a place to get a grip.

Tri-Oxide™ mirror coatings are multiple layers of metallic oxide coatings that selectively filter light. This allows us to use lighter density lens colors while still allowing squint free vision.

Metals:

All Haber metal frames are made of either, Trillium™, Stainless Steel, Ti-22 Titanium or Ti-64 Beta titanium.

Trillium™ is a Haber/specific alloy consisting of proprietary blends of nickel, copper and silver. This allows our designers to craft sunglass frames that are both durable and flexible while giving the rigidity needed to maintain correct optical integrity. At Haber, we use Trillium™ mainly in conjunction with full frame designs and spring hinges.

Stainless Steel sunglass frames are made of 304 grade stainless steel for the finest blend of quality and affordability. Resilient and strong it is a time tested material and used almost exclusively in high-end optical eyeglass frames.

Ti-22 Titanium is used when lightweight and rigidity are the main considerations. We spec titanium when design considerations mandate the use of spring hinges. Titanium provides us with a combination of lightweight and rigidity needed to mount spring hinges on ultra lightweight sunglass frames.

Ti-64 Beta-Titanium is used when weight is the main consideration. Frames made of Titanium allow for extremely light sunglasses while the flexibility of Beta-Titanium allows our designers to design frames without the need for complex spring hinges further reducing weight. Beta-Titanium’s cost is high and it is only used in the highest quality sunglasses.

Polymer frames:

Trilon™. All Haber polymer frames are made of Trilon™. This thermoplastic material is light, impact resistant, extremely tough and non-allergenic. When combined with Haberlite™ lenses it becomes an almost unbreakable sunglass package.

 

Haber Light Management Systems

Lens Colors:

Haber Rose: A light Rose color and Dust Blue flash coatings allows for incredible perception in a wide variety of conditions from overcast to bright light. 18% transmission permits use in any environment.

Copper/Rose: Combining elements of base colors Copper and Rose we have developed a color that we feel is as functional as any lens ever made. In polarized/photohromatic configurations this lens transmits 12-22% of visible light giving you the widest possible range of color density for performance in changing environments. Whether driving your car, boating or fishing, we think you will find this lens to be the most performance oriented lens in our collection.

Amber: Designed for those days when the light is especially poor, this lens truly delivers with a transmission range from 18-28%. We recommend this lens when polarization is critical but available light is limited. Amber is very effective at filtering blue light which in turn increases contrast and perception.

Pumice: This is our ultimate neutral density lens delivering true color transmission for those times when you want to see the world as it really is; colorful and non-distorted. When combined with our Tri-Oxide™ multi-layer coatings, polarization and mirrors, transmissions will range from 12-14%.

Copper or Brown: High contrast lens performance in a comforting color. Especially good on sunny days where light attenuation and contrast are both required.

Optic Orange™: Used exclusively in our ski goggles, this color balances a need for low light perception and bright light glare blocking. Haber mates a high contrast orange color with Tri-Oxide™ rainbow blue flash coatings and polarization to produce a lens with a broad performance spectrum. Optic Orange™ delivers unbelievable performance in flat light or bright light.

Lens Technical information:

Lens color density can be divided into two categories: Performance and neutral densities.

Performance: These lenses are designed to increase your perception in the environments in which they are worn. Performance colors include; yellow, orange, amber, vermillion, brown, rose, and copper. They are designed to enhance vision by providing contrast, highlight certain color spectrums, and provide increased depth perception. The downside to this increase in perception is a corresponding aberration in the actual colors themselves. Greens tend to be greener and blues tend to be more grey. What you give up in color you gain in perception.

Neutrals: These colors tend to be clear, grey, pumice and green. Neutrals give you the truest color transmission with very little if any color aberration. The trade-off here is performance. While these colors do an effective job of reducing glare they do very little to enhance perception.

“Polarized, Performance, Technology™” Glare reducing polarizers, performance enhancing colors and the latest in technological advancements. Haber brings you the absolute best in optics for your ever changing, ever challenging world.

Glare, winning the battle with the latest in technology.

Glare is defined in the dictionary as, “An uncomfortable sensation caused by bright light.” More specifically, glare comes in many forms and they all can be uncomfortable and performance compromising. We deal with three types of glare; direct, reflected and redirected. Direct glare is visible light rays coming directly from the sun. Reflected glare can come from light rays bouncing of flat surfaces such as roads, water, snow, or in the case of redirected rays, they can be reflected from your face, the back of your glasses or side surfaces.

At Haber, we reduce the effects of glare with color densities and reflective mirror coatings, polarizing filters and anti-reflective coatings.

Color densities reduce glare and filter unwanted color spectrums that compromise performance. Mirrors reflect visible light and further reduce the effect of glare.

Polarizing filters effectively reduce/eliminate reflected glare and increase visual acuity and perception.

Anti reflective coatings allow redirected bounce back glare to pass through the lens reducing annoying reflections in the lens.

All Haber sunglass products meet or exceed ANSI Z-80.3 -1996 standards for sunglasses. Our products absorb 100% of UV radiation up to 380 nanometers and effective reduce chromatic compromising blue light.

Lens color information

“I can’t see out of these glasses”, “I can’t see through these lenses”. We’ve all heard or used these phrases but they are physiologically incorrect. You don’t actually see “out” of glasses. In fact the reverse is more factually correct. Visible light travels through the lens of your glasses, through the lens of your eye and settles on the retina of your eye. These images cast upon the retina are then transferred to your brain where they are interpreted and realized for what they are. Correct interpretation of these messages is dependent on numerous factors including, but not limited to, images being correctly focused on the retina, light levels being high enough for images to be received, and light traveling through the lens of the glasses in colors that are easily focused on the retina by the lens of your eye. Yes, the color of your sunglass lenses has a profound effect on your perception and hence, performance. But which lens is best for you based on existing conditions and performance expectations?

Lens colors can be categorized into two groups; performance or contrast colors and neutral.

Neutral: pumice and green tints can be considered neutral as there is very little color distortion and other than reducing the amount of visible light reaching the eye, you see colors pretty much as they are in nature.

Performance/Contrast: reds, vermillion, orange, copper, brown, yellow, amber and variations of these are considered performance colors as they can actually enhance our ability to see in certain light conditions.

You, as a consumer, should give consideration to the selection of your sunglass lens color as it can greatly enhance your comfort and or performance.

Pumice or green: If you are driving through the country or out boating on the ocean you will enjoy seeing the colors in nature as they really are. Pumice is a good color for this as it transmits the colors as they exist without color distortion. Green is probably the most acceptable color for the majority of people. The human eye works quite well and is very comfortable with green.

Reds and vermillion: These colors tend to provide the best contrast in low light conditions. It also preserves your night vision by preventing the bleaching of “rhodopsin” a pigment located amongst the rods and cones on your retina.

Yellow, amber: These colors tend to provide the best depth perception. Use yellow for low light conditions and amber for brighter conditions. Shooting glasses tend to be yellow in nature so the athletes can discern targets and focus them in the fastest possible time.

Coppers and browns: Soft soothing colors that are both comfortable to wear and provide good contrast in a wide variety of light conditions.

The Electromagnetic Spectrum and you.

All radiation from our sun is measured within what is called the “Electromagnetic Spectrum’. Gamma rays, x-rays, ultraviolet, or infrared, all these and others are part of the electromagnetic spectrum.

Visible light: 380-780 nanometers. The colors we see exist within a very narrow band called the visible light spectrum. Located between 380 and 780 nanometers (1-billionth/meter) this spectrum runs from violet/blue at 380nm to red at 780 nm. Most of the colors you see in nature are combinations of blue, green, yellow or red.

Ultraviolet rays: 100-380 nm. Photochemical in nature. When your skin turns red you are seeing the effects of UV radiation. UV consists of UV A, B, and C. UVC is absorbed in the atmosphere and is of little consequence to humans here on Earth. UVB is absorbed in the cornea and is a major cause of snow blindness or photokerititis caused by long-term exposure to UVB rays. UVA is absorbed in the lens of the eye and is the major cause of cataract formation. Cataracts can be found in elderly migrant workers, lifeguards, surfers and others who spend a great amount of time outside without proper eye protection. Almost all sunglasses today provide protection from all UV A&B rays.

Infrared rays: 780-1400 nm. Thermal in nature. When you feel heat on your skin, you are feeling the effects of thermal radiation. While exposure to infrared may lead to dry, tired eyes, its long term effects on overall eye health is still being debated. Sunglass lens colors and their variations will have differing effects on the attenuation of IR radiation.

Blue light: 380-400nm short wave length radiation on the edge of UV and Visible light, blue has a couple of major drawbacks; one, because of its short wavelength, the lens of the eye is forced to constrict to focus the light on the retina. This in effect causes a distortion in the other colors in a way that is referred to in the optical community as “chromatic aberration”. Some in the medical community feel that long-term absorption of blue light may be linked to eye afflictions such as macular degeneration. 100% blue light attenuation will increase acuity but a world with out blue is a strange world indeed. Most sunglasses allow for manageable amounts of blue light to transmit allowing proper color recognition while minimizing chromatic aberration.

De-Mistyfying Goggle Fogging

Goggle manufacturers have made great strides in providing fog free vision but fogging is still the predominant complaint when discussing goggles. With that in mind we offer these six tips to keep goggle fogging at bay:

1. Understand the goggle. Goggle manufacturers approach fog free vision in various ways. 1. No-fog coatings applied on the inside surface of the lens. 2. Vents to allow hot, moist air to escape. 3. Volume. The greater the volume inside the goggle, the greater amount of moist air required to create fogging.
2. Don’t overdress. This is the # 1 reason goggles fog. You should be slightly cool on your first chair ride of the day. You are going to be skiing and exerting yourself and this will burn calories and generate heat. If you overdress you will be retaining too much heat and this will vent upwards through the top of your jacket and into the bottom of your goggle through the vents. The inside of your goggle is no place for warm moist air since this will inevitably result in fogging. Given the same temperatures, you should consider wearing slightly less clothing on a powder day or layer so that items can be removed when necessary.
3. Interference between helmet and goggle. Make sure there is adequate space between the top of your goggle and your helmet. Air must vent out the top of your goggle when you stop skiing and if the fit is too close, this will not be possible.
4. Improper cleaning of your goggle lens. Your goggle lens has a no-fog coating applied to the inside surface. This coating works by absorbing moisture. When the molecules become oversaturated, they swell up and become difficult to see through. If you try to wipe the goggle clean when it is in this state, you will move the coating around on the surface of the lens or you will remove it entirely. If you succeed in moving it around the lens, when it dries, the lens will appear to be scratched. If you remove it entirely, you will no longer have a viable no-fog coating and fogging will occur with greater frequency.
5. You’ve fallen, now what? If you fall while skiing and your goggles fills with snow, remove the goggle and shake out all the big clumps of snow. Put it back on and ski to the lift. While you are riding the lift, remove your goggle and place it inside your jacket. The warmth will melt any remaining snow particles and the no-fog will absorb the moisture. When you reach the top of the lift, your goggle should be ready to go. If you must remove water droplets from your goggle, dab the water from the lens, do not wipe it.
6. Blocked vents. When skiing on snowy days you must monitor the condition of the vents on the top of your goggle. As snow accumulates on the top of the vents it decreases the goggle’s ability to vent properly. When you stop, hot air rises and goes out the top vent. If this vent is blocked, the likelihood of fogging will increase.
7. Avoid the cold start-up. When traveling to the ski area it is important to keep your goggle in a warm place. If you drive to the area with your goggle in the back of your truck or in a box on your roof rack, your goggle will be extremely cold on both the inside and outside lens surface. Your face will be 98.6 degrees and your goggle lens will be zero or colder. Put your goggle on and you get instant fogging. Not a good way to start the day.

The Haber Eliminator™ Automated No-Fog Fan Technology Installation Instructions

The Haber Eliminator is a state of the art instrument, but there are a few things you can do to maximize its effectiveness which will in turn increase your enjoyment and extend the products lifespan.

Care and Use:

1. Do not submerge the Eliminator in water. It is water resistant but not water-proof.
2. Do not subject it to long periods of extreme temperatures. Leaving it in your car overnight and then taking it out on a winter's morning and putting it on your head may cause condensation to form inside the module which could be detrimental to performance. Leaving it on your cars dashboard on a hot summer's day and the resulting high temperatures could cause damage to some internal components.
3. Do not store the Eliminator outside where it could be exposed to extremely low temperatures as frost particles can form in the Fan arena and cause problems at start-up.
4. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth. Do not spray cleaning agents directly on the Eliminator. This could be detrimental to sensors and circuit boards located inside the module.
5. If storing for long periods of time we suggest you remove the battery.
6. The battery has an estimated run life of 15 hours.

Installation Instructions:

You should have received the following parts:

- Eliminator module with battery door attached.
- Top plate with brass retaining nuts attached.
- Owners manual.
- Battery

Steps:

1. Remove the battery door and install the battery.
2. Loosen the two brass nuts and remove the top plate.
3. Take the Eliminator and center it in the upper vent structure inside of your goggle. (There are some supporting ribs in this area and depending on the goggle brand and model you may have to move the Eliminator a few millimeters left or right to avoid these ribs. This is OK and will not affect performance).
4. Gently push the Eliminator so the screws protrude through the vent foam. Check again to confirm that the module is indeed centered or as close to centered as possible.
5. With the screws sticking up through the foam, place the top plate over the screws and tighten the nuts. Do not over-tighten and don't even consider using pliers. You want these nuts snug but not necessarily tight.
6. Look inside the goggle and make sure the Eliminator is fitting in the vent area and not misaligned in any way. It should fit between the front and rear flange of the goggle and should not be crushing one or the other. If it is misaligned, repeat step #5.

Operation:

1. There are three selector positions. a) Off /Red b)Auto/Yellow and c) Always On/Green. Move the switch to the "on" or "Green" position to confirm that fan is working. If "yes" this is good. If "no" check that the battery is inserted correctly.
2. When the fan runs in the "on" position you are good to go. When the switch is placed in the "on" position, it will run continuously.
3. For normal operation we suggest you select the "auto" or "Yellow" switch position. In this position the Eliminator will only operate when needed. It will be fully automatic.
4. There may be days when the Eliminator does not come on at all or days when it runs frequently. This is normal. The Eliminator only responds when environmental conditions require it to.
5. When the Eliminator comes on it typically runs for about 1-2 minutes. However, depending upon the conditions it may run for shorter or longer periods.
6. When you are finished using the Eliminator, move the switch to the "off" or "Red" position.
7. Turn it on when you are using it and turn it off when you are done. It is possible to leave the Eliminator in "automatic" mode while storing it but to preserve battery life we suggest you select the "off" position when not in use.
8. The battery has an estimated run life of 15 hours.

Performance tips:

1. Should you fail to turn on the Eliminator and your goggle fogs up completely before you realize it, you can expect the Eliminator to start working the minute you turn it on but don't expect instant results. The Eliminator works by removing fog before it has a chance to form and it is very efficient at this. It will also de-fog a completely fogged goggle but it may take a little while based on the severity of the situation. The solution is to make sure you turn it on in the morning and off at the end of the day. There is no need to turn it off at lunch if it is set to automatic. Inside the lodge, the ambient temperature is the same on the inside and the outside of the lens, fog will not form and the fan should not come on.
2. The Eliminator works by removing warm moist air from inside your goggle and exhausting it to the atmosphere through the vent foam on the top of your goggle. If snow, mud, or dirt is allowed to accumulate on the top of your goggle it will impede the air flow. Consumers should be diligent about removing particulates from these vents to maintain the full performance capabilities of the unit.
3. Where is condensation (fog) forming? The Eliminator addresses fog inside the goggle lens not on the outside. For instance, if you are skiing and you walk into the lodge, condensation may form on the outside of your goggle lens. The Eliminator will do nothing for this condition since it (Eliminator) is located inside your goggle. The good news is the problem will disappear as soon as the entire goggle reaches room temperature.
4. The Eliminator never came on. When environmental conditions are right the Eliminator will not be needed and it will not come on.
5. It's always coming on. The Eliminator has a humidity sensor. Should the level of humidity exceed the setting for the Eliminator then the product may run frequently. It is an instrument and can only make decisions based on climate. For example; if you are using the Eliminator next to the ocean on a warm day with high humidity it is conceivable the product could run frequently.
6. The humidity is low but it still comes on a lot. Are you overdressed? This is sometimes not an issue in the summer but could be an issue in the winter. If you get to the bottom of the ski run and you are sweating, then overdressing is a consideration. Try removing some layers and see if the problems disappear.

 

General:

Thank you for your interest in Haber products. As you can see, at Haber our goal is to increase your performance and comfort level by delivering to you, products that have been rigorously tested in the exact environments in which you work, play or live. Our products have been tested and developed on the slopes of Colorado, the fertile fishing fields of the Kenai peninsula, the sun drenched environs of Cabo Lucas and on the links of some of the finest golf courses in the world. Our advisory staff consists of some of the finest athletes in the world and their never ending feedback is crucial to the development of Haber products. We are certain you will experience the difference in each and every pair of Haber products you purchase. At Haber we are all about “Polarized, Performance, Technology”.

Haber™
Polarized, Performance, Technology™